Although my love for vintage is as undying as the blue haired Catholic ladies who volunteer at my favorite thrift shops, I'm suspicious of vintage profiteering--Urban Outfitters marking up standard Goodwill crap, or cheeseball use of mediocre deadstock fabric in new pieces. But, frankly, Nepenthes has earned the benefit of the doubt, so I'm looking forward to seeing some of "Rebuild by Needles," a new line of clothing cut and sewn into new shapes from vintage, mostly American military, clothing. Course, "No idea is original, there's nothing new under the sun, it's never what you do, but how it's done" (Nas)--Temple Bags and others have attempted this sort of thing before to varying success.
According to Needles and Nepenthes founder, Kizo Shimizo, the concept of rebuilding seemed appropriate after last year's TÅhoku earthquake. Although the Rebuild fabrics are mostly American, the production is done in Japan. Nepenthes NY will be carrying three styles of jacket, a vest, and pants for spring 2012, all cut from military overpants. Unlike some similar ventures, which merely use surplus fabric, these pieces will incorporate features of the original cut-and-sew pieces, so you may find zippers or pockets in unexpected places. Although the designs are consistent, the nature of the source material means each new piece is one of a kind.
Photos from eyescream.jp and Nepenthes Osaka.
Keizo Shimizu, who founded Needles and Nepenthes in the late 1980s.
Rebuild by Needles military long coat.
Sarouel (or harem shorts)--not entirely certain these are men's, but I'll keep an open mind.
Three panel shirt.
Military peak lapel jacket at Nepenthes Osaka.
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